2019 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is the debut release of this new cuvée from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, produced from almost three hectares of vineyards, in the communes of Aloxe-Corton and Pernand-Vergelesses, that have been leased from Bonneau du Martray since November 2018. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of citrus zest, pear and preserved peaches mingled with wheat toast, sesame oil, vanilla pod, beeswax and smoke, it's full-bodied, rich and textural, with a ripe, enveloping core of fruit that's framed by lively acids and chalky structuring extract. Concluding with a long, saline finish, it reflects the domaine's vision for Chardonnay—picked at full maturity, in a powerful, gastronomic style—while remaining more tightly coiled and mineral in style than its Montrachet stablemate.

The 2019 Corton Grand Cru is a big, rich wine that announces the vintage in style. Black cherry, plum and lavender are some of the many notes that are dialed up in the 2019. This is an especially somber, almost brooding Corton with a good deal of lift from the whole clusters that lends verve and energy. Hints of incense, dried herbs and gravel build into the heady finish. Stem influence is a bit more pronounced here than it is in the other wines, but the overall impression is of a Burgundy that marries elegance with power. Yields were just 15 hectoliters per hectare.

The 2019 Corton Grand Cru was picked at just 15hL/ha on 19 of September. Now here we have a lovely bouquet with brambly red fruit, redcurrant and cranberry, light rose petal notes and just a touch of bergamot. The palate is medium-bodied with a vivacious opening, perfectly judged acidity, nothing weighty or particularly concentrated. Yet, there is a sense of “flow” to this Corton with Morello cherry lingering on the finish. Its lightness of touch is quite remarkable for such a warm growing season. 367 cases produced. Tasted at Corney & Barrow’s annual in bottle tasting in London.