2016 Domaine d'Eugenie, Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru

(just three barrels made in 2016 due to frost damage, two of them new): Bright dark red. Pure but reticent aromas of dark cherry, brown spices and minerals. Juicy and intense but youthfully imploded, showing terrific lift and a sexy hint of sweetness to its flavors of dark fruits, spices and saline minerals. Denser than the Echézeaux but also less austere; at once more airy and more sensual. The explosive rising finish features tactile, dusty saline minerality and terrific grip.

The 2016 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru comprises three barrels this year (two new) with around 60% whole bunch fruit. This was closed at first, so I afforded it five minutes, then it revealed blackberry, briary, cold wet limestone and light violet scents. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, a little more structured than the Echézeaux and more saline with some chewiness on the finish. It will require several years in bottle. It is a very fine wine, although my preference at this early juncture would be for the 2015 that I tasted last year.

Just three barrels from one hectare, of which two were new. 60% whole bunch. Very dark. Real life and zest on the nose. Heady, super-ripe with a light floral element but fresh too. Very glamorous and dramatic. Lots of exuberance but all in a tight corset. Much richer than the Échezeaux. Tighter than DRC, for instance. Less relaxed but certainly ambitious. Not at all heavy. Lift on the palate. Clean finish that slowly builds. (JR)