2016 Domaine d'Eugenie, Echezeaux Grand Cru

The 2016 Echézeaux Grand Cru was 95% impacted by frost, and Michel Mallard was not expecting to make a single barrel. Actually, he managed to get two barrels because the second generation buds started growing with alacrity. It was destemmed by hand, and one of the barrels is new. It has a very pure bouquet with dark cherries, cassis and violet scents, something almost “serene” about these aromatics, belying the “trauma” of the growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, almost symmetrical in terms of focus, sorbet-fresh toward the finish with just a faint hint of blood orange and citrus lemon. This actually challenges the Grands Echézeaux, and it will be fascinating to see them age side by side.

(just two barrels made in 2016, vs. eight in 2017--the equivalent of just over nine hectoliters per hectare, according to Mallard): Bright dark red. Sappy scents of red cherry, raspberry and licorice; this wine included some second-generation. Tightly wound and youthfully medicinal, showing no easy sweetness to its flavors of black cherry, licorice, menthol and herbs. A distinctly austere style for the vintage, this wine will need considerable time in bottle to unwind. Finishes with palate-saturating tannins.