2016 Domaine Denis Bachelet, Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Evocelles

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles seems to have a natural swagger about it. Nothing ostentatious here, just a wine seemingly comfortable in its own skin with blackberry and crushed strawberry scents mixed with wet limestone. The palate is brimming with pure red fruit, just pure pinoté, just a joy from start to finish. I could have eloped with the barrel sample. Then again, that would not have pleased Denis.

Moderately saturated bright, dark red. Aromas of black cherry, boysenberry, spices and licorice are lifted by a rocky mineral pungency (this vineyard was formerly a quarry). Juicy in the mouth but more imploded than the previous samples, with its subtle sweetness leavened by underlying saline minerality. This very pure expression of soil finishes with subtle rising length. Amazingly good village wine.

Les Evocelles is a superb site, classified as village but in fact is a continuation of Gevrey’s premier cru slope. Many of the producers who own vines here chose to bottle it separately as its poor, stony soils - a mere 50cm deep - tend to yield tense, vibrant wines. Bachelet’s 2016 rendition is no exception, notes of red berries and spice mingling with hints of roast squab and forest floor, introducing a bright, racy wine with fine chalky tannins and a bright line of acidity. It's less gourmand and more intellectual than Bachelet’s Vieilles Vignes bottling.

Since 2011. Serious depth but wonderful ripe Pinot fruit. Very intense and chock full of smooth tannins and gorgeousness. So juicy! Purity. Great balance. (JR)