2014 Domaine Denis Bachelet, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Les Corbeaux Vieilles Vignes

The 2014 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru les Corbeaux has a refined and pure bouquet not unlike the Evocelles -- a true evocation of Pinot Noir -- pure, brilliant defined, elegant and effortless. The palate is showing a little more hand of the new oak than the Evocelles, although that will be integrated with time. Good body here, fine tannin and great length, and the tenderness on the finish is spellbinding. Load up as much as you can and remember to invite me when you pop one open.

(from vines planted in the 1920s; production here was 45 hectoliters per hectare): Deep red. Reserved, musky aromas of raspberry, coffee and game. Sweet, suave and fine-grained, showing insidious intensity but a light touch to its berry and mineral flavors. This cold clay terroir is never stressed by drought, noted Bachelet. Finishes creamy and long, with very smooth tannins. This normally masculine wine is downright civilized in 2014, due in part to gentler extraction.