2009 Domaine Denis Bachelet, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Les Corbeaux Vieilles Vignes

Tasted out of barrel at the Domaine. The Les Corbeaux is the most retarded in terms of barrel evolution at the moment. A little disjointed at the moment, but it will meld together by the time of bottling. The palate is very concentrated with tensile tannins, great depth and precision, lacking a little harmony towards the finish but the oak will knit that together. Great length and persistency. Tasted November 2010.

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux brings together the ripe, seductive personality of the vintage supported by clean veins of minerality that give the wine its sense of proportion. There is plenty of vintage 2009 fruit, but in a beautifully balanced, harmonious style that is impossible to resist. Once again I am captivated by the sheer energy of the Corbeaux.

Bright ruby. Much more reticent on the nose and palate than the village wine, with a pronounced minerality to the blackberry and licorice components. Tightly wound but still very sweet, even chocolatey, but less austere than usual for this wine at this stage. Finishes long, with a whiplash of bitter chocolate flavor. "Always in a more masculine style," notes Bachelet.