2018 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere & Fils, Chablis Grand Cru, Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos

A monopole bought in 1904 by the Moreau family, this has east-west row orientation at the bottom of the slope. The nose is alive with very rich peaches and lemon brulée, as well as fresh apricots. The palate has a wildly rich and yet very structured feel with terrific length, power and a sizzling mineral wash at the finish. Drink from 2026.

The 2018 Chablis Les Clos Clos des Hospices Grand Cru is vivid, nuanced and wonderfully vibrant. It is also the wine that really captures the Moreau style at its best. Lemon confit, almond, chamomile and a touch of new oak open up in a supple, silky Clos loaded with personality. Radiant and yet reserved, with mid-weight structure, the Clos des Hospices is absolutely exquisite in its beauty. The Clos des Hospices emerges from a half hectare parcel on the lower slope of the Clos hillside and is done entirely in oak.

This 1ha Clos within Les Clos, as it were, is located at the bottom of the slope and is shared equally with Louis Moreau. Replanted in 1987 after the frost of 1985, this is a very stylish, modern wine that uses oak to impressive effect. Rich and concentrated, with lots of texture, spice and fruit intensity, it has flavours of nectarine and vanilla and some tannic grip.

The 2018 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru Clos des Hospices has a gorgeous bouquet of kaffir lime, lemon zest, orange blossom and just a hint of elderflower, underneath which lies a compelling sense of mineralité. The palate is built around lip-smacking salinity that gets the juices flowing, razor-sharp acidity and a precise, persistent finish that lingers. Delightful harmony and a wonderful Clos des Hospices overall.