2023 Domaine Coquard Loison Fleurot, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

The 2023 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru doesn't quite have the panache of the Echézeaux on the nose, a bit obdurate at the moment thanks to a reduction that doesn't shift in the glass. A second glass is called for, and this is much more representative: more red fruit, raspberry and cranberry, and a touch of tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with black cherries and blood orange on the entry. It is a "sunny" Clos de la Roche with sweet fruit and candied orange peel toward the finish. This is a well-crafted Clos de la Roche, but it's a small step behind the 2022.

Cask sample. Mid crimson. Fragrant and lightly floral, pure dark-red fruit with a touch of oak sweetness on the nose. Fine-boned, light-bodied. Lacks grand cru intensity, though it does have finesse and surprising length. (JH)