2009 Domaine Bruno Clair, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Clos Saint-Jacques

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques is showing just a fraction of its true personality. Dark red fruit, minerals, and flowers come together in this textured, highly expressive Burgundy. There is an element of elusiveness that slowly gains clarity in the glass. The flavors build beautifully to the round, inviting finish. This is truly gorgeous juice. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL; tel. (708) 343-6702, The Source, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 621-6151

Good full red. Complex, soil-driven aromas of raspberry, rose petal and spicecake. Silky, seamless and youthful, with lovely sweetness to the black raspberry and floral flavors. Builds subtly on the tactile, savory, vibrant aftertaste. Beautifully balanced wine, expressive today but built to reward aging.

This is more open on the nose than the Cazetiers, whilst the palate has more weight, but is as tight as a clam’s shell. Nicely poised, masculine with gritty tannins, building nicely to again, a rather introspective finish. Tasted January 2011.

Magnum. Broad, perfumed and luscious, if a little less lively than the Huber GG Spätburgunder 2014 served alongside. Pretty gorgeous now. (JR)