2016 Domaine Bruno Clair, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Les Cazetiers

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers was not touched by the frost according to Bruno. I could not quite get to grips with the somewhat earthy nose, just missing the brightness that I was expecting. Maybe some reduction? The palate is intense and tensile with fine-grain tannin, plenty of zinging red berry fruit and a spicy, assertive finish that is brimming full of energy. It will need five or six years in bottle but despite the reduction I can see the potential here.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

(24 hectoliters per hectare): Full bright red. A bit lower-toned and wilder on the nose than the Petite Chapelle, but with a hint of mineral lift to its aromas of raspberry, game and underbrush. Juicy and firmly built, conveying lovely acid balance to its black cherry and chocolate flavors. This firmly structured, minerally wine finishes with serious but fine-grained tannins. The pH here is 3.6, the highest among these '16s along with the Bonnes-Mares.

0.25 ha out of less than 1 ha now that they have pulled out some vines, planted in 1958. Really exciting and deep flavoured. Very luscious and round. Lots of sweet fruit. Fine tannins on the end. Real energy and exciting. Great tension and texture on the end. Long! (JR)