2010 Domaine Robert Chevillon, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, Aux Chaignots

The Chaignots has far more charm than the Bousselots at this primordial stage, great clarity, with black cherries, wild strawberry and crushed stone. The palate is very smooth and rounded, not as complex as Les Cailles but with great precision and poise towards the delicate, Vosne-like finish. Excellent.

The 2010 Nuits St. Georges Les Chaignots shows the more delicate, finessed side of Nuits in its red cherries, flowers and spices. The influence of the location of this site, on the northern side of Nuits abutting Vosne, comes through in the wine’s elegance. Firm tannins suggest the wine will need at least a few years in bottle to soften. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. I have to say, this is a stunning set of wines from Denis and Bertrand Chevillon. The Chevillons told me they were surprised by the quality of the wines given the challenges of the growing season. The 2010s saw 5-10 days of cold soak, followed by 15-21 days of cuvaison. The wines were aged on their lees in French oak barrels, 30% new for the top wines and less for the mid- and entry-level wines. The 2010s will be bottled beginning in March 2012 through July 2012. Unfortunately, the 2009s were in an awkward stage on my last visit, so I had to wait a few more months to taste those wines. It was worth the wait. Chevillon’s 2009s are among the wines of the vintage. The 2009s were bottled beginning February (for the entry-level wines) through April for the top selections. I will report on the domaine’s 2009s in the April issue. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Dark bright red. Ripe blackberry and stony minerality on the showy nose, lifted by sexy oak spices. Fat, sappy and deep, with very good density for this cuvee . Finishes with broad, sweet tannins and excellent length. The crop level of 35 hectoliters per hectare was down 30% from normal, noted Bertrand Chevillon.

Attractive scent, more ethereal than the Bousselots. Then the fruit is a bit fragile and shows the oak a tad more, but it’s a lovely wine – very juicy. (JR)