2009 Domaine Robert Chevillon, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, Les Cailles

The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Les Cailles bursts from the glass with an exciting melange of smoky dark fruit, new leather, tar and licorice. It is another implosive, young wine that will require considerable patience. The energy and verve both bode well for the future. Exotic spices and dark fruit emerge even more fully as the wine fleshes out on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. My tasting with Denis and Bertrand Chevillon was one of the highlights of my most recent trip to Burgundy. The domaine’s 2009s are flat-out beautiful. Readers will not want to miss these gems. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Bright dark red. Knockout nose combines raspberry, crushed stone, spicy oak, minerals and leather. Wonderfully tangy and delineated but at the same time seamless, with superb energy and concentration to its raspberry and spice flavors. Finishes very long and scented, with substantial fine tannins. A wine of great finesse: this would provide fodder for those who believe this vineyard is capable of performing at grand cru level.

The Les Cailles is more open and fragrant on the nose, red rather than black fruits, more feminine than masculine. The palate is full-bodied with a spicy, grippy entry, good mineralite here with a fine persistent finish with a peppery twist on the aftertaste. Very fine. Tasted January 2011.