2014 Domaine Chandon de Briailles, Corton Grand Cru, Les Bressandes

Good full red. Pungent, musky whole-cluster notes of pepper, spices and sandalwood accent raspberry, smoke and underbrush; the vendange entier element dominates in the early going but in a very sexy way. Supple red berry, smoked meat and underbrush flavors show lovely definition and an alluring sweetness, not to mention very good depth. This is much smoother than it appeared to be last year when I tasted it just after the bottling. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and noteworthy rising length.

The 2014 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru has another detailed, precise and quite mineral-driven bouquet that opens nicely in the glass. The palate is poised on the entry, linear and taut with tart red cherry fruit mixed with strawberry and a touch of oyster shell coming through on the finish. Very fine, even if the Corton Maréchaudes may have the upper hand with bottle age. We will see!

Light to mid cherry. Spicy, perhaps a touch reduced, giving a smoky note. A gentle oaky sweetness too. Refined, rather delicate texture with a lovely fresh lightness of touch. Persistent and very fresh. Moreish and you won’t need to wait too long. (JH)