2013 Domaine Albert Bichot (Clos Frantin), Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Aux Malconsorts

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts has a classy bouquet with satisfactory definition and mineralité, perfumed and quite seductive thanks to those pure Morello cherry, crushed strawberry and rose petals aromas. Obvious perhaps? The palate is medium-bodied with strawberry and raspberry on the entry, saturated tannin, harmonious and at the moment driven by the winemaking. I was initially quite smitten with this Malconsorts but later on reflection, I wondered whether it conveys the structure, the backbone one seeks from this vineyard. Tasted September 2016.

Bright medium red. The nose began a bit nutty and dull, with hints of tomato leaf and beets, but showed more flowers and spices with aeration. Possesses moderate flesh and sweetness but the slightly tart-edged red berry and spice flavors convey an impression of energy. Still a bit tight and old-fashioned, finishing with a firm dusting of tannins, but showed increasing verve as it opened in the glass. This wine may yet merit a 90-point rating.

Deep crimson. Sweet, dramatic nose. Great palate impact. Wow. Some griottes cherries and massive energy. Clearly these Clos Frantin wines are the jewels in Bichot’s crown. (JR)