2014 Coche-Dury, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Enseigneres

The 2014 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignieres has a light apple blossom and lime-scented bouquet that needed some encouragement from the glass. It comes across more backward when compared to the 2015 Meursault Rougeot or Narvaux that preceded this wine at the domaine tasting. The palate offers candied orange peel on the entry that gallivants about with mandarin and grapefruit. It is hot-wired with a "killer" line of acidity that imbues this Puligny with supreme energy. The finish is pleasantly saline and offers a cheeky dab of lemongrass on the aftertaste. This is just superb.

Full bottle 1,338 g. Tasted in advance of its being the main dry white in an auction lot to be offered at the Room to Read London 2025 Gala at a dinner at Oswald's to include all the left-bank 1982 first growths inter alia. Already 'C & R Coche' on the front label as opposed to J-F, Raphaël's dad and Charlene's father-in-law.    Clean as a whistle and rather richer on the nose than some vintages. And richer on the palate, too. Not too obviously struck match at all. Excellent undertow of fruit; much less skinny than the previous style. Long. (JR)