2000 Coche-Dury, Meursault, Les Rougeots

The smoky mineral-scented 2000 Meursault Rougeots is intense, concentrated, and medium to full-bodied. Muscular and dense, it is the finest Rougeots Coche has produced in years. Loads of white fruits are intermingled with butter and spices in this seamless offering. This wine has tremendous complexity, depth, and length. Projected maturity: now-2012. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

A completely different expression than any of the foregoing wines, which is interesting since the vineyard abuts Chevalières. This is classic Meursault in style with round, rich, generous, "warm" fruit and flavors, offering toasted nut and butter aromas plus fresh sliced peach, apricot and apple scents but gorgeously complex, intense, refined and beautifully precise flavors of terrific focus and cut. But it is the superb depth on the finish that really set this apart and this delivers such quality that it is almost a match for the Perrières, a compliment in anyone's book. Simply beautiful wine that has just now arrived at its apogee though it should be capable of holding here for at least a decade. Tasted several times with consistent notes.

Subtle aromas of tangerine, spice and minerals; quintessential Meursault, perfect with grilled crustaceans, according to Coche. At once fine and powerful; extremely youthful for a 2000, with a firm mineral backbone. Hiding its flesh today. Finishes with superb length and grip.

Average yield. A hot September and the threat of storms softened the 2000. Deep gold. Very smoky Coche on the nose – almost caricature Coche! ‘ Poularde de Bresse à la crème – c’est inévitable ,’ is Jean-François Coche’s reaction. Great stuff. Lots of tension and pleasure. Fully evolved but a real treasure. Excellent persistence. Luscious and hedonistic – ready at least! Smoky. (JR)