2005 Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Aux Malconsorts

I recall tasting the 2005 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Malconsorts from barrel with Sylvain back in 2007 and thinking something along the lines of “Wow.” And despite being first in the line-up of many older vintages, this still ranks as one of Sylvain’s finest creations. It has a pure and precocious mint-tinged nose that is almost crystalline in its purity, deftly handling the new oak and retaining its youthful zeal. There is a sense of symmetry and precision on the palate – not a hair out of place. The fruit is slightly darker than its ’02 counterpart tasted alongside. The finish offers a gentle crescendo that risks leaving the imbiber stupefied. Give it a few more years, but this is one case where I empathize with infanticide. Drink 2017-2030+ Tasted June 2014.

Good saturated dark red. Pungent, mineral-driven aromas of raspberry, smoke, cocoa powder and spices. Silky on entry, then lush and seamless in the middle; a distinct step up in sweetness and depth from the foregoing samples. At once velvety and weightless in the manner of a top grand cru, offering superb lift, an impression of strong extract, and an ineffable floral quality. Wonderfully sappy, sweet and long on the aftertaste, with the fine-grained tannins concealed by a whiplash of fruit. I found this bottle remarkably sexy already, but it should be better a decade from now.

A subtle trace of background wood frames black fruit and rose petal and violet-infused floral aromas that are extremely primary, indeed to the point of being borderline backward that introduce wonderfully fresh, vibrant and powerful flavors that are big, robust and well-muscled though not rustic with just superb dry extract on the palate saturating finish that goes on and on. Wow!

Smoked meat, ginger and cinnamon-tinged plum, cassis, and black raspberry, and brown spices mark the nose of Cathiard’s 2005 Vosne-Romanee Les Malconsorts, another of the wines that display cut and clarity of flavor along with an imposingly polished, creamy texture. The new wood introduces torrefactive, caramelized suggestions, but the wine maintains its shape and brightness right through its impressive, meat- and mineral-inflected finish. Abundant tannis are harbored deep within, make no mistake, and this should be set aside for at least 8-10 years. Ultimately, I would certainly expect it to surpass the Murgers in stature. Beginning next year – in consequence of the sale of Thomas-Moillard properties to Dujac and de Montille, a portion of which Cathiard rented – his production of Malconsorts will plummet to the level of the late 1980s, reflecting only the small parcel of this great site that he owns. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($39.00;85). A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70

Light nose, racy fruit. Very Vosne. Very sleek and sophisticated with lovely savoury race. Lots of sinew and sufficient flesh to distract from some very fine tannins. Great length and balance. Wonderful finish. Jan 2007