2014 Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru

The 2014 Romanée St Vivant Grand Cru, matured in two-thirds new oak, has an incredibly powerful and pure bouquet that already possesses dizzying, seductive intensity. Wow. The palate has a satin-like texture, perfect acidity and filigree tannin. However, it is the purity of this wine and the shimmering tension on the finish that is totally entrancing. One of the wines of the vintage? Most certainly. Bravo Sebastien.

(two of three barrels were new): Bright, saturated ruby-red. Some smoky reduction to the aromas and flavors of black raspberry, licorice, bitter chocolate and coffee. Then wonderfully sweet, silky and seamless but utterly primary in the mouth. For such a plush wine, this displays outstanding energy. Finishes with big, dusty tannins and slowly mounting length, with a strong juicy floral quality filling the olfactories.

67% new oak; it's the first time it's less than 100%, which will continue in 2015 for all appellations. 75-year-old vines. Sumptuous black fruits. Very firm backbone. All potential with silky texture and very firm but exuberant fruit. Very precise. Not quite the weight I would have thought some grands crus might deliver. But very polished. (JR)