2020 Domaine Jacques Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Referts

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Réferts wafts from the glass with aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, mango, freshly baked bread and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and textural, it's richer and more concentrated than the Perrières but also more defined by the sunshine and warmth of the vintage, though that's mitigated by lively acids and a mouthwateringly saline finish.

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru has a slightly more evolved bouquet with a light cereal tincture coming through with aeration. It doesn't quite possess the amplitude of its peers at the moment. The palate is balanced with a spicy entry, sharp in terms of acidity. It doesn't possess the harmony or nuance of JM Boillot's Les Refert, and I find just a little heat on the finish. I was expecting more - maybe this bottle is entering a dumb phase? Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.