2013 Bouchard Pere et Fils, Corton Grand Cru

Deep red. Wild, slightly syrah-like aromas and flavors of black raspberry, game, earth and burning cinders. Sweet, dense and thick, but with excellent energy and a fine-grained texture giving the mid-palate a distinctly suave quality. A bit withdrawn in the middle but opens up and blossoms on the broad finish, which features noble tannins. This fruit was harvested at a ripe 12.5% potential alcohol and chaptalized to 13.2%.

The 2013 Le Corton Grand Cru has an intriguing bouquet with red berry fruit, licorice and, somehow, a little Antipodean in style. The palate is medium-bodied with grain tannins, rustic and ferrous, with a touch of dryness on the bitter finish. The Corton-Charlemagne tasted alongside seems much more successful this vintage, and I would drink bottles shortly.

Deep crimson. Peppery and dark on the nose, the 45% new barrels adding a toasty sweetness. Firm, dry, definite. Well shaped and showing refinement in this lighter vintage. (JH)