2007 Domaine Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

Tasted at the Domaine. This is an exquisite Corton-Charlemagne from its finest exponent. Tasted from a sample that was racked in late-September, is has a startling vibrant leesy nose with background scents of white peach, frangipane, tinned apricots and orange-blossom. The palate displays wonderful balance, a pervasive sense of effortlessness here, supreme harmony and clarity with a citrus/white peach tinged finish that forms an apt denouement for this gorgeous Corton Charlemagne. Outstanding. Drink 2011-2025+. Tasted November 2008

De la Moriniere is always at pains to caution that his white “shuts down” for several years soon after bottling, but in that case I must have tasted his 2007 Corton-Charlemagne before that happened. Cooling herbal, restrained floral and bitter-sweet hints of black currant and citrus rind on the nose lead to a luscious tide of ripe yellow plum, white peach, lime, and grapefruit tinged with chalk, salt, and iodine. A silken texture in no way diminishes the impression of clarity and refreshment. Faintly honeyed and nut oil notes add a sense of richness and depth in a finish of utmost purity of refreshing fruit; clarity to mineral nuances; and vibratory energy. When one compares the 2006 side-by-side today, the latter does indeed show a more overt stoniness and – for all of its textural richness and additional amplitude – suffers slightly in comparison with such fresh fruit vivacity as accrues to the 2007. But either of these contrasting reflections of a great site should be well worth following for more than a decade. As usual, Jean-Charles Le Bault de la Moriniere gave his Chardonnay from the heart of En Charlemagne a year in cask followed by six months on the fine lees in tank. He picked his one Pinot block early in September, then paid his crew for eight or nine days while the rest of his parcels ripened completely. "I would never have expected such quality given the weather conditions," says de la Moriniere, but then he reflected on the frequent divergence between human psychological perception of "good weather" and what really matters, namely the needs of the vine. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (646) 223 2200

Tasted from magnum when Bruno Borie decided a white was needed, the 2007 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru showed quite brilliantly. It has an intoxicating nose of white peach, vervain tea, almond and crushed stone, quite vigorous considering that it is already 14 years old. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine line of acidity, broad and weighty in the mouth, and very pure, with an almost creamy texture toward the finish. Magnums of Bonneau du Martray have an unerring tendency to outperform their half-size counterparts, and that is the case here. Tasted at Ducru-Beaucaillou.

Pale yellow. Complex nose melds lemon, lime, apple, flowers, powdered stone and sexy fresh herbs. Silky on entry, then quite firm in the middle, with the crushed stone element initially dominating underlying fruit. With aeration, this showed a richer texture and emerging citrus fruit and floral qualities. There's a slightly saline quality here and a firm spine but the wine avoids coming off as hard or rough. Still, its classically dry finish, with flavors of pineapple and crushed stone, give it a youthful austerity. This was bottled in the spring of 2009, and I would not be surprised if it went into a shell in the next 6 to 12 months.

Clean, light, served blind. I thought it might have been that Morey Montluisants while some others thought it could be a dry white bordeaux. Very pretty but light rather than massive. Nothing to object to but not obviously grand cru concentration. (JR)