2016 Benjamin Leroux, Volnay Premier Cru, Les Mitans

(no frost here, according to Leroux; entirely destemmed; 20% new oak): Good bright red. Alluring, tangy aromas of redcurrant, red cherry, rose petal and spices. Lovely sweet, plush, seamless wine in the classic silky style of this premier cru. Finishes with broad but fine-grained, gentle tannins.

The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans, which had not been racked, had a tightly wound, slightly laconic bouquet with straightforward redcurrant and cranberry fruit laced with loamy scents. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy and chalky tannin, the red fruit overtaken by black fruit toward the finish that is Pommard-like in style. Good potential. Cerebral and quite delicious.

Never racked. Not much nose. Light and crunchy fruited with some richness and taffeta-like texture. Dry finish. (JR)