2013 Benjamin Leroux, Volnay Premier Cru, Les Mitans

(not yet racked; vinified with 10% whole clusters): Musky purple fruits on the nose. Tight and a bit dry on the palate, with dark berry, plum and licorice flavors supported by a firm spine of tannins. Just eight hectoliters per hectare were produced in 2013.

The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans, which was due for racking, has a slightly lean blackberry and undergrowth-scented bouquet that is nicely defined, but lacks a little vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chewy tannins, but there is good acidity here, and a pleasant iodine note toward the finish. It is just missing a little substance for a Mitans.

Lightish ruby. Some notes of autumn leaves but not without red fruit still – sweet cherry and spice, like a sour-cherry pie without the sweetness. Very tangy, almost tart on the finish but just holds the balance. Long spicy finish. (JH)

Very closed, with a certain wild black-fruit character – beguiling if unexpected. Slightly tough palate, though. (AH)