2018 Benjamin Leroux, Vosne-Romanee, Au-dessus des Malconsorts

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts-Dessus 1er Cru contains two-thirds whole bunch, and that comes through on a slightly stemmy nose that you might describe as Dujac’s cousin. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins, a fine line of acidity and the structure you would expect from a Malconsorts, leading to an edgy, persistent finish. Excellent. This will only be bottled in magnums.

Aromas of cherries, raspberries and sweet soil tones, framed by a deft touch of exotic new oak, introduce the 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Au-Dessus des Malconsorts. It's a medium to full-bodied, velvety wine that's charming and nicely concentrated, with a fleshy core of fruit structured around ripe tannins and acids. Bottled only in magnum, this is one of Leroux's smallest cuvées.

Nearly 65% whole bunch. Very small premier cru that touches Gaudichots, which Ben Leroux thinks it resembles. On the same calcareous seam. Only one new barrel but it had already fermented a white. Barrel sample. Lots of spice on the nose. Scented with dark-red fruits on the palate, tight, taut, fine-boned with strength and length. (JH)