2019 Benjamin Leroux, Volnay Premier Cru, Les Caillerets

The 2019 Volnay Les Caillerets 1er Cru has the strictest, almost Pommard-like bouquet with the most mineralité of the quartet of Volnays tasted from Leroux. The palate is medium-bodied with fine definition, the two-thirds whole bunch fruit imparting black pepper and clove notes toward a finish that has an almost brittle texture. Excellent.

The 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets is also very charming, wafting from the glass with scents of peonies, orange rind, cedar spices and subtle red berry fruit. Medium-bodied, lively and melting, with powdery tannins and succulent acids, it concludes with a melting finish.

Leroux is a big admirer of Caillerets. Two-thirds whole bunch, one-third new oak. Racked July and the final blend is now in old barrels. Transparent crimson. Very fresh nose. Hint of cassis. Very appetising with a dry finish. Lots of energy. But not at all heavy. (JR)