2018 Benjamin Leroux, Volnay Premier Cru, Les Caillerets

The 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets reveals aromas of dark berries, wild blueberries, forest floor and potpourri, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fine-boned and elegant palate that's pretty and precise, built around chalky tannins. It's more ethereal than the richer, more muscular Santenots.

The 2018 Volnay Les Caillerets 1er Cru was the first red to be picked by Leroux, on August 29. It has a slightly smudged bouquet of brambly red fruit, sous-bois and a pepperiness imparted by the two-thirds whole-bunch addition. The palate is medium-bodied with a grainy texture and quite structured, like a Pommard, with its limestone soils very expressive and lending vivacity on the finish. Good potential.

65% whole bunch. This is Caillerets-Dessus but not on the label. Vines 25–70 years old. They have pulled out the young vines because the 161-49 rootstocks do not cope with drought in limestone soils. Barrel sample. Complex nose that is both savoury and sweet, dark and fragrant. Compact but super-fine tannins. There’s clearly the freshness and tannins of the stems but it is just right. Cool, bone dry, mineral, fragrant without being sweetly perfumed. So elegant. (JH)