2015 Benjamin Leroux, Volnay Premier Cru, Clos de la Cave des Ducs

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Caves des Ducs has a very pure bouquet: blackberry, raspberry coulis, a touch of wild forest floor and minerals - there is wonderful focus and control here. The palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity, the 50% whole bunch adding a little more edginess compared to the completely de-stemmed Volnay les Mitans, with precision all the way through to the finish. This is a "killer" offering from Benjamin Leroux.

(50% vendange entier ; not yet racked; from well-drained light clay soil on the top of the slope): Dark red. Sexy nose combines smoky calcaire minerality, spices and a hint of game. Wonderfully silky and sweet in the middle, with hints of spices, game and leather. Very savory wine with a lot of personality, but in need of a racking. This very broad Volnay finishes with substantial dusty tannins.

A little mossy on the nose and severe on the palate. Hard work at the moment. Will it soften and take on charm? I really don’t know, I’m afraid. (JR)