2017 Benjamin Leroux, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, Aux Thorey

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Thorey 1er Cru has a precise bouquet – a little tight at first, but focused – offering black cherries and briary scents. The palate is medium-bodied and quite grippy in the mouth, with good substance. This had not been racked yet, so it was a little opaque on the finish when tasted, but it will lighten up by the time of bottling.

Small berries, 25% whole bunch. ‘One of our first parcels.’ Pinot Fin. Barrel sample. Mid cherry red. Fragrant and seems lightly stemmy in its fresh and peppery dark fruit. Beautifully fragrant with both red and black fruit and that lifted freshness. Gorgeous purity of dark-red fruit on the palate, a peppery texture and great finesse in the tannins, paper fine. Scented from start to finish but with intensity and length. Moreish, and I want to drink it now. (JH)