2016 Benjamin Leroux, Echezeaux Grand Cru

(Leroux began with only Vignes Blanches but now gets fruit from multiple climats in Echézeaux; totally destemmed): Dark, bright red. Distinctly dark, brooding aromas of blackberry, bitter chocolate and licorice accented by a peppery quality. A bit youthfully brutal on the palate, offering savory flavors of blueberry, crushed stone, pepper and spices. This firmly structured, uncompromising Echézeaux finishes with dry, granular tannins and is very difficult to taste today. These vineyards were hit hard by the frost in 2016 and the malolactic fermentation was late.

The 2016 Echézeaux Grand Cru is a mix of several vineyards to make two barrels that usually come from Vignes Blanches, which was frosted this year. It was also destemmed. It has a well-defined bouquet with red cherry and bergamot aromas that do not quite convey grand cru status. It has a well-balanced bouquet, good extraction, a little sweeter in style with a sweet if slightly predictable finish. Not bad, although it needs to step up to the plate by the time of bottling.

Deep crimson. A certain vegy quality on the nose. Urgent pace on this wine. Very mouth-filling and a sweet-biscuit quality. Fresh and dynamic. Edgy and satisfying. Quite open. Long. (JR)