2013 Benjamin Leroux, Echezeaux Grand Cru

(one-third vendange entier ; not racked): Good dark red. Aromas of licorice, violet, smoke, minerals and tobacco. Tighter and livelier than the Suchots despite the fact that this parcel in the climat Les Vignes Blanche is essentially an extension of the same block of vines. Shows sneaky minerality to its flavors of purple fruits and violet pastille. The rising finish really titillates the taste buds. Boasts excellent tensile strength. Leroux told me he may not bottle this wine until May.

The 2013 Echezeaux Grand Cru, which had not been racked and includes one-third whole bunch fruit, has an intense bouquet that should be a livewire once it has absorbed the oak. The palate is well balanced with plush black fruit and plenty of chocolaty new oak that will be subsumed with time. There is real density in this wine.