2016 Benjamin Leroux, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

Bright, dark red. Medicinal red cherry and pungent chalky minerality on the nose. Wonderfully silky and juicy on entry, then precise and sharply delineated in the middle palate, with the sappy red cherry and wild herb flavors given added punch by crushed-stone minerality. Really stunning perfume and lift in the mouth. Finishes with terrific energy and subtle rising length. This and the Bonnes-Mares weigh in at about 13.5% alcohol, the highest among this outstanding set of 2016s.

The 2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru was much more muted on the nose compared to the Clos Saint-Denis (although the oak treatment is identical). This is a little withdrawn at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, quite firm in the mouth, a more masculine wine compared to the Clos Saint-Denis but without the same finesse. A bit like Dujac, this is a pair where I prefer the Clos that replies to the name Denis.

Very vibrant crimson. Pale rim. Firm and inky on the nose. Rich but with lots of finesse and subtlety. Very polished tannins and fruit with a little sense of icing sugar sprinkled over it all. Just a tad drying on the end but very ambitious. Red cherries. (JR)