2016 Benjamin Leroux, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Champeaux

(from 40-year-old vines; the malolactic fermentation only finished in July): Dark ruby-red. Aromas of dark cherry, licorice and menthol convey a distinctly rocky character. Medicinal and quite unevolved in the mouth owing to the late malo, with very dark flavors of blackberry and blueberry dominating. Finishes with slightly clenched tannins. Excellent potential, from a premier cru that performed very well in 2016.

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux, completely destemmed, is deep in color and with quite a punchy blackberry and bilberry-scented bouquet that seems to stride out of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of black fruit, bold and assertive in style with plenty of crunchy blackberry and boysenberry fruit and a long finish. Not a subtle Gevrey but delicious to drink.

Late malo. Racked three weeks ago and back in barrel, none new. Very deep crimson. Rich and yet bright. Very satisfying. Super-juicy yet with excellent structure. (JR)