2014 Benjamin Leroux, Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru

The 2014 Clos St Denis Grand Cru has a very refined, very cohesive, elegant bouquet with red cherry, wild strawberry and rose petals - wonderful. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin on the entry, a thickly layered Clos Saint Denis with dense, ripe raspberry and cranberry fruit, though it just needs a little more detail on the finish if he wants to "strut" like the Amoureuses.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

Deep red-ruby. Very dark, slightly inky aromas of crushed black cherry, licorice and violet. Quite tight and backward, even a bit stunted today. Hints at medicinal black cherry and mint but this grand cru is revealing limited personality today. Finishes with rather unyielding tannins. An oddball in the context of this collection.

The oak is a bit obvious at the moment, the acid too. Not transcendental. Bit dry on the end. (JR)