2017 Benjamin Leroux, Chambertin Grand Cru

The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru has a tight-lipped bouquet that demands coaxing from the glass; the 80% whole bunches imparts captivating undergrowth/damp moss aromas that filter through the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied and quite dense, with grippy tannin and a light espresso note. I find the Mazis-Chambertin has a little more grace on the finish by direct comparison. A bit of a curmudgeon, this will benefit from four or five years in bottle.

Frosted in 2016. Five barrels, two new. Magnums and bottles. Barrel sample. Deep crimson. Sweet, ripe and intensely fruited on the nose. A hint of vanilla over crushed strawberries laced with pepper. Spicy too. Cool customer, less open on the palate. Pure, cool and silky on the palate. Incredible finesse already and so much more to come. Soaring beauty even if not yet expressive. (JH)