2014 Benjamin Leroux, Chambertin Grand Cru

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2014 Chambertin Grand Cru, which comes from organic fruit in the heart of the vineyard, demands some coaxing in the glass, but it is worth the wait; there is very detailed, delicate red berry fruit that is so refined and poised. There is lovely purity here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine structure, tight and poised, good density and once it is racked (in two week's time), it will really flow and gain flesh. There is great potential here.

(not yet racked): Medium red. Raspberry, spices and smoked meat on the nose. Round and saline on entry, then extremely youthful and dry in the middle palate, with any sweetness currently concealed by stony minerality and strong acidity. There's plenty of incipient flavor here but this very closed wine is extremely tight and unevolved. Very difficult to taste today: I wanted more sweetness of fruit.