2016 Benjamin Leroux, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

The 2016 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru was reduced from three to two barrels this year (the vines are located on Terres Blanches next to Christophe Roumier’s). It has an extremely pure bouquet with black cherries, kirsch, blood orange and minerals. It has a wonderful, shimmering bouquet with fine tannin, a gentle crescendo here with a nicely structured finish and superb mineralité. Wonderful.

(not racked; from a single parcel of vines on pure white soil on the Morey-Saint-Denis side of the cru, which was barely touched by frost according to Leroux): Healthy dark red. Captivating lift to the sappy aromas of maraschino cherry, licorice and exotic herbs. Dense, vigorous wine with terrific medicinal reserve and punch to its dark fruit, licorice and mineral flavors. Youthfully imploded in a classic Bonnes-Mares manner but not rigid or hard. A wine with outstanding finishing energy and length, built for a slow evolution in bottle--and a classic expression of its terroir . (Incidentally, Leroux is looking to supplement this fruit source with another piece of Bonnes-Mares.)

Terres blanches. Near Chambolle at the Morey limit. Lots of tension. Round and dense and very deep-flavoured. Explosive on the palate. Really alive – great vivacity. Dry finish. Quite youthful but very expressive. (JR)