2015 Benjamin Leroux, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

The 2015 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru demonstrated impressive intensity on the engaging nose: blackberry, briary, wilted rose petal and mineral, gaining intensity all the time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe juicy red berry fruit, very structured and cohesive with an almost Musigny-like finish. There is clearly great density here, a long-term Bonnes-Mares with a persistent, spicy finish that will leave you racing back for another sip.

(vinified with one-third whole clusters; from high on the hillside on the Morey-Saint-Denis side of the cru): Bright, dark red. Knockout nose combines raspberry, wild herbs and menthol; more complex and soil-driven than the Clos de la Roche and Clos Saint-Denis. Concentrated and thick, offering hints of very ripe fruit but enlivened by spicy energy and a repeating herbal aspect. Finishes with substantial ripe, dusty tannins and a lingering note of licorice. Leroux noted that his Clos Saint-Denis and Clos de la Roche may be ready for bottling earlier than this firmly structured Bonnes-Mares. He also told me that he'd love to add some more fruit from the Chambolle side of this grand cru in future vintages.