2013 Benjamin Leroux, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

(from white soil on the Chambolle side of the cru, notes Leroux): Good dark red. Blackberry, licorice and wild spices on the nose. Then sappy, saline and youthfully imploded on the palate, showing less fleshiness than the Clos de la Roche but a strong mineral character to the blackberry and licorice flavors. This very tight, stony, vibrant wine will need long aging for its complex soil tones to emerge.

The 2013 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, from the Chambolle side, has a beautiful bouquet that is pure and sensual: black cherry and red plum, hints of blueberry emerging with aeration. The palate is sleek and silky on the entry with very good depth of fruit, a little sharpness originating from the citric acidity and a dash of spice on the finish. This will need 5 to 7 years in bottle before broaching with a waiter's friend.