2016 Benjamin Leroux, Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru

(following an early malolactic fermentation, Leroux is intentionally keeping this wine reductive, describing this as "the Coche technique"): Very reduced aromas of smoke, minerals and clove. Fat, smoky, salty wine with terrific pliancy and depth. A bit lower-toned than some of these 2016s but large-scaled, strong and in need of time in bottle. Musky, smoky and very long, finishing with a touch of nutty oak. Leroux has just 2-1/2 barrels of this juice, including a new 350-liter cask. (The Corton-Charlemagne had just been racked and moved upstairs and was unavailable for tasting.)

The 2016 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru had not been racked and so was quite reduced on the nose. The palate is quite rich and mellifluous, a fine thread of acidity with a touch of spice and ginger on the powerful finish. It is a long-term prospect because you can feel the weight and presence already, though whether it will reach the heights of the finest recent vintage remains to be seen. This will be bottled entirely in magnum.