2015 Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

The 2015 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is matured in 40% new oak with no whole bunch fruit. It comes from Amélie Berthaut's mother's parcel in the lower reaches of the vineyard and would have been labelled under François Gerbet in previous years. It has a very precise bouquet with perfumed dark cherry and iodine scents, an underlying mineralité that only surfaces with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, slightly chalky in texture with a very crisp finish and a dash of black pepper lingering on the aftertaste. This is another excellent 2015 from Berthaut.

(the first vintage for this cuvée , as these vines just reverted back to Gerbet; the family owns one parcel "in the bottom middle of the Clos," according to Amélie Berthaut; the vines are more than 50 years old but the estate has done a lot of recent replanting due to frost episodes in recent years; 50% new oak): Bright ruby-red. Pungent aromas of cassis, kirsch , spices, licorice and bitter chocolate (Howell Mountain Cabernet?). Penetrating, sharply delineated black fruit and minty herb flavors are lifted by a note of violet. The slightly peppery tannins build with air, making this wine almost tough in the early going. Leaves the palate vibrating but this Clos Vougeot will need extended aging to blossom in bottle.