2011 Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Cras

(12.6% after chaptalization): Medium red. Dark berries, licorice and a peppery note on the nose. Concentrated and youthfully tight, with a distinctly pungent quality to its pomegranate flavor. Has power and thrust for a moderately ripe wine. Best today on the juicy finish, which mounts slowly and builds well. This needs at least six or seven years of cellaring.

The 2011 Chambolle Musigny Les Cras is the most savory and exotic of Ghislaine Barthod's Chambolles. Smoke, tar and licorice meld together, conveying an impression of darkness, before orange peel and violet notes bring lift to the fruit. Deceptively medium in body, the 2011 possesses notable depth and complexity. Savory mentholated notes reappear on the tannic finish. Ideally, the 2011 should be cellared for at least a few years.