2012 Comte Armand, Volnay Premier Cru, Fremiets

Savory herbs, smoke, plums, black cherries and licorice all jump from the glass as the 2012 Volnay Fremiets shows off its flashy, explosive personality. Here the flavors and texture are all about resonance and breadth. The Fremiets finishes with substantial energy and complexity. Winemaker Benjamin Leroux used 40% whole clusters for the Fremiets. This is another terrific effort from Comte Armand.

(18 hectoliters per hectare; 40% vendange entier): Bright medium red. High-toned aromas of cherry liqueur and spicy underbrush; the closest to jammy on the nose of any of these 2012s. Hugely rich and thick, with an exotic quality to the cherry liqueur flavor. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and lingering sweetness. These vines were picked very early but with a high pH of 3.85 and 12.7% natural alcohol.