2005 Domaine de l'Arlot, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, Clos des Forets Saint-Georges

(these vines range from 22 to 55 years of age) Bright ruby-red. A perfumed basket of fruits on the nose. Powerful, rich and spicy on the palate, with intense, taut, compellingly sweet flavors of blackberry, chocolate and minerals. This was much more rigid before the racking, noted Leriche, but it has evolved quickly and positively since then. Grew silkier as it opened in the glass, the firm tannins spreading out horizontally on the slowly mounting, very persistent back end.

From barrel, the 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Clos des Forets St.-Georges offers aromas and deep richness of plum and blackberry, with hints of cinnamon, coconut, caramel, and salt. Deep, meaty flavors well up as one works this wine around in the air. It displays impressive amplitude, abundant but relatively fine-grained tannins, and an impressively long cling. This is a wine that frequently surprises with its ageworthiness, so while I imagine enjoying it at 5-7 years age, it will probably hold well for some years thereafter. (The 2004 rendition, incidentally, is quite satisfying, though not, I think, built to age.) Jean-Pierre de Smet – who managed this estate since its 1987 purchase by the French insurance group AXA – has just turned over the reins to his young technical director Olivier Leriche. Practices here have been certified as biodynamic now for two years. The 2005s were all fermented with whole clusters. Numerous agents and U.S. importers including: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642 5500, Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100, Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

45-year-old vines and 40-50% new oak. This wine would have been made by Jean-Pierre de Smet. Pale greyish crimson. Autumnal leaves on the nose – quite a bit of development. Nicely evolved and now quite gentle. Medium weight with some smoky/bonfire hints. Very pleasing fruit. Slightly dry finish but very well balanced on the palate and already drinking well. Good freshness and no shortage of fruit in the middle. (JR)