2005 Chateau Pavie Decesse Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

Wine Advocate April, 2008

Pavie Decesse, a much smaller vineyard (9 acres) than Pavie, produces just over 400 cases of wine. The vines average 45+ years of age, and the blend contains no Cabernet Sauvignon and much less Cabernet Franc than Pavie. Yields are similar for the two estates, but Pavie Decesse exhibits more espresso, chocolate, and caramelized Merlot-like flavors, and reveals a certain freshness and precision because of its exquisite limestone-based terroir. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, the blockbuster 2005 Pavie Decesse boasts an inky/purple color as well as a gorgeous nose of crushed rocks, acacia flowers, blackberries, blueberries, and a super-concentrated cranberry-like note. Its well-integrated toasty oak component is more noticeable than in the Pavie. Exceptionally concentrated, powerful, and long, it is meant for long-term aging in spite of the high percentage of Merlot. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040+.

Sadly, only 415 cases are being made from this 9+ acre vineyard that averages 46 years of age. Planted on a high limestone plateau above Pavie, it is composed of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. A spectacular offering from Gerard Perse fashioned from yields of 33 hectoliters per hectare, its upbringing includes a 35-day maceration, malolactic in barrel, and aging on its lees for six months. A liquid mineral component dominates the nose of the opaque purple-hued 2005. Full-bodied with wonderful elegance and precision, its relationship to Pavie can be seen in its broad texture and long, concentrated creme de cassis, raspberry, and blueberry notes. Its aging in 100% new French oak has been beautifully absorbed, leaving only subtle hints of espresso and chocolate. This structured, tannic beauty will require a decade of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2040+. (96-100)

Saturated, deep ruby-red. Superripe black fruits, licorice, graphite and violet on the nose. Wonderfully sweet and scented on the palate, with terrific aromatic lift to the explosive dark fruit, mineral and floral flavors. The wine's powerful rocky minerality and high-pitched berry fruit nicely leaven the almost exaggerated ripeness of the vintage, giving this wine terrific freshness and extending its finish. An outstanding combination of sweetness and power. I can see this improving in bottle for 20 years.

The Château Pavie-Decesse 2005 has an exotic and irresistible bouquet with immense purity: crème de cassis, blueberry, vanilla and violets. The palate is medium-bodied with sumptuous tannin, well-judged acidity, fine structure and poise. There is great depth here, very sensual and with a powerful sweet cassis finish that feels just a little top-heavy and unlike the superior Pavie ’05, shows a little dryness. Give this another few years or so in order to find its equilibrium.

Deep dark red; dense and raisiny to smell; powerful, tannic, sinewy wine; very ripe in flavour, straightforward in quality, tannic and chewy in texture, medium in length. Forceful, not for me. 2018-30