2000 Chateau Pavie Decesse Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

Gerard Perse’s 2000 Pavie Decesse, a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc from a vineyard situated above Pavie, on the steep limestone hillsides outside the walled town of St.-Emilion, is a fabulous effort (all the Perse wines are stunning in this vintage). Notes of camphor, creme de cassis, violets, black currants, cedar, and licorice jump from the glass of this inky/purple-hued offering. Monumental richness, sensational sweet tannin, a skyscraper-like mid-palate, and a 45+-second finish result in an extraordinary wine that is just reaching its plateau of full maturity. It should last for another 20-25 years.

Bright, deep ruby. Explosive aroma of roasted black cherry. Dense, highly concentrated and deep, with penetrating, palate-saturating flavors of blackberry and black cherry framed by firm underlying minerality. A wine of great force; despite its major ripeness, there's also a cool, medicinal aspect that's utterly refreshing. Finishes with big, broad tannins and outstanding length.

Deep blackish crimson. Very little nose apart from unappetisingly overripe pruney flavours. This isn't St Emilion, it's a formula! Uncomfortable to have in the mouth. One is experiencing human (wasted) effort rather than nature. Horribly jagged and unbalanced. Nasty dry, rasping finish. (JR)