2023 Chateau Tertre Roteboeuf, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

The 2023 Le Tertre Roteboeuf offers up aromas of crème de cassis blueberry liqueur kirsch espresso roast and creamy new oak followed by a full-bodied rich and layered palate that's sweet dense and concentrated somewhat reminiscent of François Mitjaville's 2011. When I tasted it the wine had only been in barrel for a matter of weeks as the 2023 took an unusually long time to ferment to dryness.

The 2023 Tertre Rôteboeuf was picked from September 26 with a normal duration of picking. It has a typical bouquet for this Saint-Émilion that plays by its own rules: black cherries dark chocolate a touch of melted tar and licorice well-defined and actually gaining precision as it opens in the glass. The palate is very smooth and a little savory in style displaying hints of meat juices and white pepper almost garrigue-like toward the finish. There's an appealing dash of black pepper on the aftertaste that seems to linger temptingly. Those who love this Chateau will love the 2023.

The 2023 Tertre-Rôteboeuf is a potent backward wine. Dark-toned fruit and huge sweeping tannins make a strong first impression. The 2023 is a somber brooding Tertre-Rôteboeuf that will need at least a few years to come into its own. It's difficult to say whether the searing tannins will ever fully soften; I would say that is a 50/50 proposition at this stage. En primeur at Tertre-Rôteboeuf is more akin to Burgundy than Bordeaux; wines are tasted straight from barrel rather than from prepared samples so there is always a bit of variability. I observed this in the two barrels I tasted. 2030-2043

80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. Cask sample. Bright purple hue. Dark, rich and toasted, those Radoux barrels showing as always at this stage. Ripe but not over the top. Really glossy palate with gourmand fruit, svelte but powerful tannins and freshness. Couldn’t be anything but Tertre Roteboeuf but with a little more tension than usual. (JL)

80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet. Cask sample. Powerful oak influence, which is hardly surprising at this stage. The smell reminds me of Christmas: wood smoke, exotic spices, chocolate, rosehip tea, raspberry, red plum and pomegranate. Sandpapery tannins. Very ripe and rich with explosive energy. (JRL)