1997 Chateau Leoville Las Cases 2eme Cru Classe, Saint-Julien

Dark ruby color. Blueberry, spices and flowers on the nose. Very intensely flavored, with a deep core of spice, sound acidity and a very firm spine. The dark berry fruit is primal and deep. Finishes with toothcoating but not excessive tannins and excellent length.

Tasted at the Las-Cases off-line at The Square. The 1997 Las-Cases is a solid performer for the vintage. It displays fine definition and freshness on the nose with blackberry leaf, crushed stone and briary, imbued with a sense of joie-de-vivre perhaps lacking on the ’99. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins lending it masculinity and structure. I like the tension here: a ’97 with energy and vivacity with a long sweet tail of black fruit towards the finish. Drinking now, but it will keep for another decade. Tasted February 2011.

A star of the vintage, this classy, cedary, black currant, and sweet cherry-scented, dense ruby-colored Las Cases exhibits a beautiful dosage of new oak, medium body, expansive, ripe, concentrated flavors, plenty of glycerin, and exceptional purity. It is low in acidity, and already delicious. Anticipated maturity: now-2016.