2009 Chateau La Gaffeliere Premier Grand Cru Classe B, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

An absolutely spectacular effort, the 2009 is one of the all-time great La Gaffelieres produced. One would have to go back to the 2005, 1947 or 1961 to find this level of quality from this ancient, historic vineyard planted adjacent to the walls of St.-Emilion, on the Cote Pavie. Dating back to the 1400s, this estate has been owned for over three centuries by the Malet-Roquefort family. Composed of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc (in the past it was two-thirds Merlot and the rest split between Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc), the 2009 reveals compelling elegance, tremendous intensity and opulence and more viscosity than one normally sees. Lots of kirsch, licorice, incense, truffle, asphalt, blackberry and cassis notes dominate the aromatics and flavors of this full-bodied, viscous, fabulously pure, flamboyant St.-Emilion. Drinking it now may be considered infanticide by some consumers, but it is already attractive, and should last for 3-4 decades.

One of the old, historic vineyards in St.-Emilion, owned by a family that goes back to the 1400s, this wine has gone from strength to strength over the last decade. Cropped at 33 hectoliters per hectare in 2009, during a harvest that took place between September 29 and October 9, the final blend of 80% Meriot and 20% Cabernet Franc will never produce a massive wine, but rather one of great elegance. The difference in 2009 is that this wine also has compelling intensity of fruit, and more opulence and viscosity than usual. At 13.5%, the alcohol is relatively modest compared to what many St.-Emilions achieved in this vintage. Dense purple, with terrific purity and a thickness without heaviness, black cherry, black currant, and superconcentrated cranberry and kirsch notes as well as hints of spring flowers and minerals are all present in this medium to full-bodied wine. It also possesses fabulous purity, texture, and transparency. Drink it over the next 30-35 years. (Tasted four times.)

Dark ruby-red. Precise though very ripe aromas of red fruits, licorice and minerals are complicated by Oriental spices. Then juicy, leanish and a bit tart in the mouth; began youthfully sullen but opened with air to show more seductive flavors of spicy dark plum, blackberry, soy sauce and underbrush. This finishes clean and long, with hints of blueberry, pine needle and clove. Nicely balanced and light on its feet. With only 13.5% alcohol, this has a very easy-to-drink quality, and it's easy to miss the wine's concentration.