2022 Chateau Climens Premier Cru Classe, Barsac

Opens with kick, immediately establishing depth of flavour without being heavy. Makes clever use of bitterness to balance out the opulent apricot, pineapple, mango and nectarine fruits, think thickly sliced fennel-infused marmalade. Great quality, a success in the vintage, but be aware that 2022 is very much an opulent style of Sauternes. Harvest October 6 to 23. 7.5hl/h yield, 58% new oak for ageing, 20% wine globes.

Revealing a delicate, complex bouquet of spices, ripe apricot, pineapple, guava and mango, the 2022 Château Climens is showing well today and possesses a medium to full-bodied, tense and layered palate, a fleshy, delicate core of fruit enhanced by bright acids and a delicate, ethereal finish with notes of apricot and orchard fruits. This has a pH of 4.1 and 141 grams per liter of residual sugar. As usual, this estate produced a tense and elegant Barsac that is especially attractive this vintage. It should age gracefully over the next two decades and more.

The 2022 Climens was tasted from a prepared sample, although the final blending has not been done - though it still represents around 95% of what will be the final wine. There were just two tries this vintage between 6 and 23 October, and there is 141g/L residual sugar. It has a fragrant bouquet with wild honey, peach skin and lemon curd, well-defined, though not as intense as previous vintages tasted at this stage. The palate is medium-bodied with a waxy/viscous opening and a fine bead of acidity, not tremendously deep but with fine delineation. With nougat, quince and almond notes, the 2022 is quite sweet and almost Riesling-like toward the finish that actually feels as if it has less than the aforementioned residual sugar level. This is a precise Climens.

Rich gold in colour, with intense crème caramel, apple tart, citron confit and apricot puree flavours, this has a silky texture and luscious appeal, low acidity, unusual for Climens, although a beautiful mint freshness gives a welcome cooling blash on the finish. 114g/l residual sugar, 4.1ph. 7.5hl/h yield. Harvest from October 6 to 23, spanning 9 days in total. New owner Jean-Hubert Moitry as of this vintage, with managing director Jerome Moitry. The winemaking team remains the same, overseen at least for now by Bérénice Lurton, and this En Primeur sample has been tasted the first time as a finished blend, not tasted direct from individual barrels as in the past.

Juicy and vibrant initially, a nice weight on the palate, with lemon, orange, pineapple. Has some creaminess but keeps quite a sleek frame. A little constructed and toasted on the finish. Missing some fruit density and sense of layering - it's a bit shy, not showing as much fleshiness or overt sweetness as some others at this point - 141g/l residual sugar.

100% Sémillon. RS 141 g/l. Cask sample. Golden hue. Fragrant but understated with mandarin, spice and vanilla notes. Rich but fresh and balanced. Bitter-botrytised notes and great persistence. Saline note on the finish. Elegance and finesse. (JL)