2016 Henschke, Hill of Roses, Eden Valley

Essentially a young-vine Hill of Grace (although the grapevines were 28 years old at the time), the 2016 Hill of Roses Shiraz comes from a single block replanted using selections from the original vines. Hints of menthol and bay leaf mark the nose, imparting an inimitable Eden Valley note to the dark berry aromas. It's full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, tannic but ripe, finishing long and velvety. It may be longer lived than the Tappa Pass—and is much more limited in production—but I might rather have three or four bottles of the Tappa Pass.

Just two barrels of Shiraz are sourced from Post Office Block 3: 30 rows of the Hill of Grace vineyard, planted to heritage cuttings in 1989. It may not yet have the fruit definition or refinement of Hill of Grace, but Hill of Roses oozes with personality. Inky, sleek black fruit is nuanced by intriguing salted liquorice, black pepper, iodine, dried mint, baking spices, mulch, roast chestnut and pomegranate syrup, supported by layered tannins. Pronounced lavender notes emerge with time in the glass. A singular slice of history. Released at £310.

Full Vinolok-stoppered bottle 1,210 g. 100% 27-year-old Shiraz grown on one single 0.94-ha block on the edge of the 4-ha Henschke Hill of Grace vineyard in the Eden Valley wine region, using organic and biodynamic practices. This is from the Post Office Block 3 and is being monitored as a scientific exercise to see at what vine age the wine starts to taste like Hill of Grace proper. Picked 14 March. Matured in 30% new and 70% seasoned French hogsheads for 18 months. Very interesting to taste this alongside Hill of Grace 2016. The colour looks a little paler and more evolved: mid garnet and less purple than Hill of Grace. Very interesting savoury nose with everything apparently in place. Strong rockpool sort of nose. You could just imagine the sea washing over rocks… Gentle tannins and great power without flashiness. I don't see how anyone would be disappointed in this even if it is less concentrated than the Hill of Grace 2016. Some camphor on the finish. Tannins very much in the background. I poured this into my young wine decanter straight after tasting and Nick and I shared about half the bottle at dinner. 24 hours later, poured from the decanter, it had really mellowed with the fruit dominant and no suggestion whatsoever that this was too early to drink it. Does sweet tar sound off-putting? It's not meant to as this is really pretty lovely and finishes very pure – though there may be more tightly wound potential in the Mount Edelstone. (JR)